Introduction
Les batteries d'iPhone se dégradent à l'usage. Au fil du temps, leur capacité de charge baisse. Les batteries d'Apple sont estimées tenir 80 % de leur charge pendant près de 500 cycles, ce qui équivaut à environ 18–24 mois pour la plupart des utilisateurs. La détérioration des éléments chimiques de votre batterie peut causer le ralentissement de votre iPhone. Remplacez votre batterie avec ce tutoriel et votre iPhone sera à nouveau au top de ses performances.
Si votre batterie a gonflé, prenez les précautions appropriées.
Remarque : après la réparation, votre iPhone peut afficher un avertissement à propos de "l'origine" de votre batterie, même si vous avez utilisé des composants originaux Apple. Si votre iPhone fonctionne normalement, vous pouvez ignorer cet avertissement.
La section "état de la batterie" n'apparaîtra plus après un remplacement de batterie. Apple désactive cette fonctionnalité lorsque vous remplacez la batterie vous-même.
Pour obtenir des performances optimales après avoir complété le tutoriel, calibrez votre batterie nouvellement installée : Chargez-la à 100% et laissez-la charger pendant deux heures supplémentaires. Puis utilisez le téléphone jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteigne à cause de la batterie faible. Rechargez-le ensuite sans interruption jusqu'à 100%.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer le démontage.
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Dévissez les deux vis Pentalobe de 6,7 mm au bord inférieur de l'iPhone.
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Juste en dessous de chaque vis Pentalobe se trouve un joint noir. Pour une protection maximale contre les liquides et la poussière, vérifiez l'état des joints ou remplacez les vis lors du remontage.
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Mesurez 3 mm à partir de la pointe et tracez une ligne sur le médiator avec un marqueur permanent.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.
VauWeh -
Oh, come ON!
Big Ed -
It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!
@leifdewolf I wouldn't skip it for a first repair.
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
The pick in my iFixIt kit was packed with the battery, not with the rest of the toolkit.
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Recouvrez l'écran de bandes de ruban adhésif, qui se chevauchent, jusqu'à ce que toute la surface soit couverte.
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Si la ventouse n'adhère pas au cours des étapes suivantes, pliez un morceau de ruban adhésif épais (du ruban adhésif toilé p.e.) pour former une poignée et soulevez l'écran de cette façon.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Anti-Clamp24,95 €
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Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'arrière pour débloquer les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.
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Insérez le côté droit ou gauche de votre iPhone entre les bras.
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Positionnez les ventouses en bas de l’iPhone. Une à l'avant et l'autre à l'arrière.
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Appuyez sur les ventouses afin d'appliquer la pression à l'endroit désiré.
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Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'avant pour bloquer les bras.
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Tournez la poignée dans le sens horaire, de 360 degrés ou jusqu'à ce que les ventouses commencent à s'étirer.
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Vérifiez que les ventouses restent bien alignées entre elles. Si elles commencent à se décaler, détachez-les pour les réaligner.
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Chauffez un iOpener et faites-le passer à travers les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.
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Pliez l'iOpener de façon qu'il repose sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone.
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Attendez une minute que l'adhésif se ramollisse et qu'un espace s'ouvre.
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Insérez un médiator sous l'écran et le joint en plastique, et non dans l'écran.
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Passez les trois étapes suivantes.
Please UPDATE THIS STEP to say 'insert the opening pick underneath the PLASTIC FRAME OF THE SCREEN' and not the screen. Way too many people are taking this as the way to do it then posting their screen looks different when it's open when they've actually removed the screen leaving the frame in place. It's not rocket science.
Thanks for the suggestion! We updated this step to clarify that.
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Prenez un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud, ou bien préparez un iOpener et posez-le en bas de l'iPhone pendant environ une minute afin de ramollir l'adhésif qui se trouve en dessous.
An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.
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Tirez sur la ventouse de façon ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger interstice entre le panneau frontal et la coque arrière.
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Insérez un médiator dans l'interstice sous l'écran et le joint en plastique, pas dans l'écran lui-même.
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Faites glisser le médiator le long du coin inférieur gauche de l'iPhone pour trancher l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran en place.
I think it's important to note that depending on how a screen was damaged, make sure to insert the pic under the black bezel directly under the actual screen. This bezel is a frame around the digitizer. I unknowingly inserted the pic between the bezel and the screen, and separated them both. I did this all the way around the phone. So I basically had to struggle to keep together two different sections of the display assembly because of this mishap, until I removed all the ribbon connectors. It made things much more difficult.
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Réinsérez votre médiator dans le bord inférieur de l'iPhone et faites-le glisser vers le côté droit pour continuer à faire céder l'adhésif.
My replacement screen for the XR has a black rim but it looks pink. Is that normal?
Step 11 says not to insert your pick around the right side to avoid damaging cables, then Step 12 says to insert it on the right side. Help, I'm confused!
Hi there!
Thank you for the feedback! The wording in step 11 was definitely ambiguous, so we have changed it! You only need to avoid the marked spots rather than the right edge.
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Ouvrez l'Phone en faisant pivoter l'écran vers la droite, comme la couverture arrière d'un livre.
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Posez l'écran iPhone contre un objet pour qu'il soit maintenu à la verticale pendant que vous poursuivez votre réparation iPhone XR.
sure looks like the "hinge" is on the right hand side to me.. not left...!
If you leave the suction cup attached to the screen during the “hinging” process, it makes for a very handy holder for the screen until it’s completely detached.
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Dévissez les trois vis Y000 de 1,2 mm qui fixent le cache du connecteur de la batterie.
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Ôtez le cache.
Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.
Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.
+1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.
Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…
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Faites levier avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur tout droit hors de sa prise.
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Écartez légèrement le connecteur de la carte mère pour l'empêcher de faire accidentellement contact avec la prise et d'alimenter le téléphone pendant que vous effectuez votre réparation.
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Dévissez les deux vis Y000 de 1,2 mm qui fixent le cache du connecteur de l'écran.
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Enlevez le cache.
What if the screw is damaged and you can’t get one out?
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Prenez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever et déconnecter la nappe de la vitre tactile.
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Prenez la pointe d'une spatule pour débrancher le connecteur de la nappe de l'écran.
The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?
Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged
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Dévissez les cinq vis qui fixent le cache du connecteur de la carte mère à la coque arrière :
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Une vis cruciforme #000 de 1,3 mm
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Une vis cruciforme #000 de 1,5 mm
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Trois vis Y000 de 1,2 mm
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Retirez le cache.
I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!
I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff
I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.
Stow -
Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please
I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?
I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.
I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.
this is what i have done as well. Care is still needed to avoid damaging this part. However, it is seemingly far less prone to damage or loss and thus less risky for this repair process.
I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.
Is this small bracket important if broken??
Mine is broken
Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??
I'm guessing so. I replaced a screen on a phone I bought from a friend. I noticed this bracket was broken when I disassembled the phone but didn't think much of it. When I reassembled it my NFC also does not work. Bummer. A lot of people in these comments have asked if it is crucial that this bracket be connected. Can someone from iFixit or other please reply to those comments?
Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:
1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.
2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.
3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.
The first time I did this repair, I didn’t see the comments ahead of time and broke the bracket, even removing the 1.3mm screws first. The second time I did the repair, I was prepared and being extra careful, but the simple act of turning the 1.3mm screw head was enough to break it. If I ever have to do this repair again, I’ll just leave the screw in and try to slide the plate out with the screw (and bracket, hopefully) still in tact, as per Kyaw-Zin Win.
None of the screw driver bits I got fits the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws. How do I remove them?
Same issue as above. The bits provided in the kit do not work with the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws
Further to above comment about bit not working. Had to go and purchase another PH000 from Home Depot and that worked
I’ve broken that little bracket attached to the red screw. Is it important and can I get a replacement????? Thanks all
Broken the clip. Is this important??
Don't remove the 1.3 Phillips screw! Twisting this screw will break the smaller bracket that is clipped to the larger. Remove all the other screws. Block the smaller bracket from moving as you gently slide the larger bracket horizontally toward the battery until free. The smaller bracket can stay in place while the screen is replaced. When reassembling, support the small bracket by backing with a spudger or similar tool.
I just broke the smaller bracket also :( I didn´t notice these comments until now :(
It looks like part of the antenna for NFC, as all except NFC works on my iPhone now.
It should be repairable using some wire wrap wire, either twisted around the two screws that connected that part of the bracket (or soldered in place). I will try and report back if it works.
Success!! I managed to re-construct the small arm of the bracket by screwing the 1.3mm screw back in with some 0.3mm enamel wire soldered into what was left of the small bracket arm on the screw, then the other end of the enamel wire I wrapped under the 1.5 wire screw's head (enamel exposed to bare metal), then screwed both screws down. also I lifted up the small metal arm with a screw driver (to make sure it reconnects with the display grounding square) ..and NFC worked again (slightly different antenna pattern mind (need to place cards slightly higher up the rear of the phone). Anyway works again :)
do you think it would be possible to repair without the use of microsoldering?
i brought a new bracket set for the xr and replaced the old one but even with that nfc/apple pay still doesn't work. i'm questioning if i put a wrong size screw or something else
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Avec la pointe de la spatule, soulevez le connecteur de l'ensemble capteurs avant hors de sa prise.
During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.
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Ôtez l'ensemble écran.
unclear if this is where screen removal ends
I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.
I apologize for missing these comments initially, but yes that’s correct, the screen is removed now and the rest of the guide goes on to other parts, either in the phone or on the back of the screen. Good luck with the repair!
The alternate method of removing the battery should be highlighted as a standard option. There is so much more work and potential to damage the parts than if you left them in place and carefully with plenty of heat remove the battery. I so wish I had seen this before!
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Dévissez les sept vis qui fixent le cache sous le Taptic Engine et le haut-parleur :
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Trois vis cruciformes de 1,4 mm
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Deux vis cruciformes de 1,7 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 1,9 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 1,6 mm
Why remove all this stuff for the battery? Is it necessary to do any of steps from here to 32 for the battery at all?
Removing these parts facilitates removing the bottom adhesive tabs but is not necessary. If you remove the upper adhesive tabs, then heat the backside of the lower ones (which you do if you couldn't get the tabs out), the battery comes out easily. Removes 14 steps from this procedure.
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Dévissez les cinq vis qui tiennent le haut-parleur inférieur en place :
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Une vis d'entretoise de 2,8 mm
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Une vis d'entretoise de 2,3 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 2,3 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 1,8 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 1,6 mm
I was able to get the 2.8mm standoff screw out with a 1.5 mm flat head from my iFixit kit but was not able to find anything to get the 2.3mm screw out. Buying the standoff screwdriver begrudgingly. I wish I'd known about this before I started.
Recommend PH00 for the 1.8 and PH000 for the rest.
I recommend a 2.5 mm flat for the orange and red stand off screws.
use the sharp end of the spudger to stick into the standoff screws - it will hold well enough to position the screw and start threading it in - then use 2.5mm flat to tighten
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Enlevez le petit cache dans le coin supérieur droit du haut-parleur.
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Ôtez le cache du connecteur du Taptic Engine.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Pincettes de précision4,95 €
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Ôtez le haut-parleur.
you may be able to reuse the gasket if you heat the glue. You may want to consider this because I can’t find the gasket through ifixit.
do we have to remove all the extra stuff such as this if we're just replacing screen display? what is the importance?
If you want to get the surface prepped nicely, tightly roll up the corner of a KimTech wipe, add some IP, then gently use your spudger tip to wipe excess gasket material from the area. Take your time!
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Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,8 mm qui fixent le Taptic Engine.
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Chaque bande est munie au bout d'une languette d'extraction noire qui adhère légèrement aux bords de la batterie.
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Décollez la première languette adhésive du bord inférieur droit de la batterie.
Yes I think this is very discouraged to use tweezers to do this task (like it is shown on the picture), applying a force to pull the adhesives can easily result in an unintended action on the battery. These adhesive do generally break anyway. Better use the dental floss solution as mentioned in step 41.
Welp fellas extra careful on this part, I wasn't enough and punctured the battery which led to a small fire reaction, luckily with only 15% of charge it barely did anything. EXTRA CAREFUL I REPEAT TAKE IT SLOW
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Pincettes de précision4,95 €
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Écartez lentement une languette adhésive de la batterie, vers le bas de l'iPhone.
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Tirez régulièrement, en exerçant une tension constante sur la bande, jusqu'à ce qu'elle glisse hors de son emplacement entre la batterie et la coque arrière. Pour un meilleur résultat, veillez à ce que la bande reste le plus horizontale possible et ne reste accrochée à aucun des autres composants de l'iPhone.
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Si les languettes adhésives de la batterie se déchirent pendant que vous les retirez, servez-vous de vos doigts ou d'une pincette arrondie pour récupérer ce qui reste de la bande et continuer à tirer.
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Répétez les étapes ci-dessus pour retirer les trois bandes adhésives restantes.
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Si vous avez réussi à retirer toutes les bandes adhésives, sautez l'étape suivante.
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Attendez environ une minute que la solution ait ramolli l'adhésif. Utilisez le bout plat d'une spatule afin de soulever doucement la batterie.
I had recently done a battery replacement on my iPhone SE (no wireless charging) and did not pay heed to the explicit instructions of being careful to not damage the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery SMH. Luckily I did not damage the actual coil, but I did damage a little of the paint covering the coil, which then came off a little more when I was cleaning the remaining tape off with the iso alc. I read that the paint is a protective layer for heat and someone recommended adding electrical tape to cover the spot just to be safe so that's what I did. Don't be like me, use the floss method below to avoid this from happening to you.
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Si une des bandes adhésives s'est déchirée et que la batterie reste coincée dans la coque arrière, préparez un iOpener ou servez-vous d'un sèche-cheveux pour faire chauffer la coque arrière derrière la batterie. Cela contribuera à ramollir l'adhésif.
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Retournez l'iPhone et faites glisser une ficelle solide (du fil dentaire ou une fine corde de guitare par exemple) sous la batterie.
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Tirez la ficelle d'un côté puis de l'autre, dans un mouvement de scie, et ce tout le long de la batterie, pour faire céder l'adhésif. Cela risque de prendre du temps, car l'adhésif cède lentement. Soyez patient et vous en viendrez à bout. Ne déformez ni endommagez la batterie.
Personally, I would recommend using drops of isopropyl alcohol. This softens most kind of sticky things. Then pry the battery out. Since you're replacing the battery, damaging it shouldn't be a worry.
As long as you don't puncture it as i did lol
I used a 3d printed heated bed at 70 Celsius to preheat for 10 minutes the phone body. After that I fixed the anti-clamp tool on the lower part of the battery. With a good vacuum in the cups the battery comes out surprisingly easy
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Retirez la batterie de l'iPhone.
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Collez la batterie, déconnectez-la et continuez à remonter votre appareil.
Changed the Battery but the new battery shows Service symbol..what to do?
Just replaced the battery, but the new one is draining like crazy. Even faster then the old one? Did I get a faulty battery?
I might have the same issue ill try calibrating it and force restarting.
When I plug in the connector of the new batterie to the motherboard. It instantaneously becomes very very hot. So I’ve unplugged it and I don’t know what to do now….
I’m afraid it explodes or starts on fire.
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Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine, car vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou enlever les films adhésif au dos de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour ré-assembler votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l'ordre inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur R2 ou de déchets électroniques certifié.
La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre forum de réponses pour obtenir de l'aide au diagnostic.
Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine, car vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou enlever les films adhésif au dos de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour ré-assembler votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l'ordre inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur R2 ou de déchets électroniques certifié.
La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre forum de réponses pour obtenir de l'aide au diagnostic.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
148 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
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17 commentaires de tutoriel
Hello and Good morning please I wanted to know if iPhone 8 battery can be fixed in iPhone XR?
Not sure what you’re asking; if your asking if the iPhone 8 battery will fit in an Xr, or vise-versa, the answer is no.
After battery replacement, battery health is disabled. Will a factory reset reenable the battery health?
Hi Jon,
Unfortunately, Apple disables battery health for non-Apple battery repairs. I’ll make sure to add this into the guide intro.
What about the constant repeating message that “could not check if battery is genuine”. Does it stop showing up on the screen?
After you clear the message it will only come up again when the iPhone is restarted.
The step by step guide shows and tells you in detail how to take it out and how to replace it.
Instructions were clear enough, though lengthy and often redundant. I disassembled my phone, replaced the battery, and closed it up in about two hours (first-timer).
For the love of God, iFixit, you need to do a much better job linking videos for procedures like replacing screen adhesive in your instructions. I eventually found one for applying the adhesive, but it was still little confusing so I looked at your YouTube video. That video, is no longer even relevant because the procedure shown in the video does not match with the current adhesive kit you see. Or, at least, sure doesn't look the same.
Anyway, I encourage anybody trying this to purchase and extra screen adhesive or two. you'll probably need them.
this is before i buy the battery replacement kit, i was wondering if i need to buy the adhesive battery strips or if it comes with the kit
Hey, Danke für die ausführliche Anleitung. Es ist nicht der erste Akku, den ich in einem iPhone tausche und ich komme immer gut mit den Anleitungen klar.
Ich hätte eine Bitte / Empfehlung falls ihr diese oder andere Anleitungen zu neueren iPhones nochmal aktualisiert:
Ich vermute es geht nicht nur mir so, dass es relativ komplex ist, die neue Klebedichtung richtig zu befestigen. Hierfür wären Tipps und ggf. Bilder hilfreich..
It would have been useful to know in the parts list that the speaker gasket has to be removed to replace the battery. This is a significant issue as the gasket is hard to find as ifixit does not carry the gasket for iphones. A simple note on the battery purchase page is all that would have been needed. As I'm about to replace the battery, I know have to source a gasket for the bottom speaker.
My iPhone XR battery started showing erratic charging percentages, it would sometimes charge to 60% then 90% but would never go over 98% on a charge cycle. This lasted about 2-3 weeks before a charge cycle would not reach more than 12%. I was going in for surgery and shut my phone off, when I got out of surgery and attempted to turn the phone back on it went into boot loop, flashing the Apple logo every few seconds. Nothing I tried (all the Tricks mentioned online) would get the phone out of this cycle. Thankfully, I had ordered the iFixit battery kit prior to this happening and had the battery on the way. Once I received the kit, I reviewed all the directions, watched the install video online and proceeded to replace the battery. I am happy to report that the phone works perfect now and started right up after the new battery went in. The kit has all the tools and supplies needed for replacement and I am so grateful to not lose all my pictures and data on my phone.
One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.
In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!
Erica - Réponse
Is there any place to buy these screw gaskets? I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere but one of mine was pretty much chewed up. Silicone should work but I’d prefer the oem solution.
Chilinh Nguyen - Réponse
I found a place on Amazon that sells them. It's cheapest to get a full set of screws than to get just these. $5-$6 USD.
J Olin -
Can it be dead?
Lulu navarro - Réponse
If I transfer the data from the old to the new battery with an icopy, don't I get an error message?
David Julian Krause - Réponse
how am i supposed to know if the battery is below 25% if the screen won't turn on?
Beth Jackson - Réponse
Spoiler alert! I just followed all the steps and if you bought the anti-clamp you might save a lot of time and some unreversible steps.
I recommend that you read all the steps before beginning and follow the steps up to the point where the guide removes the screen (step 23). After that read again the precautions of step 41 and try the next thing:
- Using something like the iOpener hot bag, heat up the back side of the phone where the battery is glued to for some minutes
- Alternatively use a 3d printer heat bed at 60 degrees Celsius
- Once the back of the phone is hot to the touch, enough to make it uncomfortable to the touch, find a portion of the battery with a smooth surface and attach the anti-clamp to it and the back of the phone
- Follow the steps 4 and 5 to detach the battery from the frame
If this procedure works you will not have to remove some elements such as:
- lower speaker black tape (step 28)
- lower speaker water proof gasket (step 33)
I hope that someone find this helpful. Happy fixing!!
Julio Beltran - Réponse